What do you think about when you’re on a wave?
Countless amounts of dedicated individuals take to the deep blue in their spare time to escape. Maybe you’re in the surf for fun, or maybe you’re in the surf to let off a bit of steam. Whatever the case may be, you’re thinking about something and in some way it’s affecting you. Maybe you’re gaining revenge on someone? Planning to drop in on them on every – single – wave…
Picture this; for starters it’s your birthday, your mum says you can have the whole day off, the forecast says the surf is 5 star pumping all day, and you have priority. For the entire day.
For once, the cookies in the pantry are filled with chocolate chips; not sultanas… Then to top it off you hear a murmur from your parents saying they might get take away for dinner, rather than grandma’s traditional pumpkin soup. (Sorry, G’ma!) After probably the best morning ever, you hit the surf.
Now, imagine this! After a trip around the sun, you’ve woken up before your alarm has even gone off. Then you check your schedule to discover a long day ahead of you. Everyone’s forgotten your birthday; except grandma who’s already cooking up quite a storm… You get a glimpse of the cookies she has already made. You’ve had enough already. So with the same board and in the same conditions as last year, you head back out to get some waves.
From absolute silence, to the eruption of laughter, the big blue endeavours to express various emotions for many people. So I caught up with the biggest boogie lover I know, (PapaSurf) to find out where his mind is.
What is it that constitutes a good surf from a bad surf?
“Attitude and expectations. We all get to decide how we feel in the morning and how we are going to deal with the days little challenges, big or small. For me, just the anticipation of a surf starts pumping positive ions around my body. It totally over rules the 40-minute drive and frosty start in the dark.
I could never tell you the water temp because it doesn’t change the fact that I am going out.
Once there, I do enjoy summing up the possibilities, then getting changed as quick as I can. Many times, it looks average but when you commit to just getting wet, you generally find it’s way better than it looked from shore.
Glassy waves with forming faces, ramps and lips that throw over, keep you returning week in and week out. Keeping you hyped up, even all the way to the coffee shop afterwards.
Competition is a good platform to form a non-bias on waves and if you should go out or not. “You have to compete in all conditions, so practise in all conditions” I was told by wise lady in the bodyboard world.
A good surf to me is when you are with a couple of likeminded people enjoying the stoke, sunshine and waves.
When a pod of dolphins appears right beside you and begin to jump through the waves or race you down the face how could you not be at one with the ocean and nature?
Even in a bad surf where your timing is out, or you get caught inside in a big swell and have your limbs re arranged, you still take away a little bit of knowledge. This builds the determination to fix or improve your style or technique.”
How much does your mood impact on your performance?
“Greatly. When I watch other surfers frustratingly slap the water or yell out when they miss a wave, it seems hardly enjoyable for them. I am there, others are there. We’re enjoying waves in what seems like a different world to the frustrated rider. With the same waves, same day and same conditions. When they do eventually get the wave they’re after, they generally Kook it anyway.
Time to change attitude.
Your body language paints a picture in all aspects of life. If you are uptight and frustrated it will show in all that you do. Over kooking moves, wave selection and end of surf satisfaction. If you are loose and free flowing it will reflect in your style and it is clear from the beach you’re someone who is cruising stylishly along a peeling face, on a perfect trim line.
If you capture a photo, without a doubt there is a smile ear to ear”.
Well, there you have it. Words from a wise sea turtle!
So tell me,
Where is your mind?